To the Bravery of the Swiss – The Lion of Lucerne

Even though I lived in Switzerland for around 5 months, I never had a chance to see the “Lion of Lucerne,” a stunning monument to the Swiss Guard who perished in 1792 during the French Revolution, when revolutionaries stormed the Tuileries Palace in Paris, France.

Lion1

Lion2

Images: Wikipedia

This beautiful tribute was designed after 1818 by noted Danish sculptor Bertel Thorvaldsen[1], and carved between 1819 and 1820 by Lukas Ahorn.

Of this statue, Mark Twain said:

“The commerce of Lucerne consists mainly in gimcrackery of the souvenir sort; the shops are packed with Alpine crystals, photographs of scenery, and wooden and ivory carvings. I will not conceal the fact that miniature figures of the Lion of Lucerne are to be had in them. Millions of them. But they are libels upon him, every one of them. There is a subtle something about the majestic pathos of the original which the copyist cannot get. Even the sun fails to get it; both the photographer and the carver give you a dying lion, and that is all. The shape is right, the attitude is right, the proportions are right, but that indescribable something which makes the Lion of Lucerne the most mournful and moving piece of stone in the world, is wanting.

The Lion lies in his lair in the perpendicular face of a low cliff–for he is carved from the living rock of the cliff. His size is colossal, his attitude is noble. How head is bowed, the broken spear is sticking in his shoulder, his protecting paw rests upon the lilies of France. Vines hang down the cliff and wave in the wind, and a clear stream trickles from above and empties into a pond at the base, and in the smooth surface of the pond the lion is mirrored, among the water-lilies.

Around about are green trees and grass. The place is a sheltered, reposeful woodland nook, remote from noise and stir and confusion–and all this is fitting, for lions do die in such places, and not on granite pedestals in public squares fenced with fancy iron railings. The Lion of Lucerne would be impressive anywhere, but nowhere so impressive as where he is.”

Next trip to Switzerland.

The Old Wolf has spoken.


[1] Perhaps Thorvaldsen’s most famous work is his Christus in the Vor Frue Kirke in Copenhagen, of which a copy resides in the visitor’s center of the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints in Salt Lake City.

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European Road Trip – 1971

In December of 1971, I was living in Naples, Italy, where I had also spent a year previously, and a friend of mine who was at the time serving on the USS Cascade (AD-16) had a little Fiat 850 Spider. It was decided that we should take a road trip, and so we did. (How George managed so much shore leave was a mystery to me, but I wasn’t asking questions.) We drove up Italy through Cesena to Venice, past Udine to Vienna, across Austria to Lofer, down through the Romansch-speaking part of Switzerland, across the Lake Como area, and back. It was a wonderful trip.

I recently came across my slides from the journey, which I thought I had lost for years, and decided it was worth a post, if only so my friend, with whom I’m still in touch, could see them. The photography is hardly award-winning, but there are some pretty shots here and there.

Near Cesena, Italy

Near Cesena, Italy

Foggy Venice 2

Venice was cold and foggy.

Foggy Venice

Twin bridges

Venice - Gondola

Parked Gondola

Venice 2

Canal with bridges

I would later return to Venice many times as a consequence of my employment, in much better weather and more pleasant seasons. It is one of my favorite places on earth.

Clearing the Fog 2

As we proceeded north, we broke out of the fog as we approached the Alps in the vicinity of Udine. The views were glorious.

Clearing the Fog

Italian Alps

Dolomites, Italy

Clearing the Fog

December 1971 - When this Rooster Sings

Found on the wall in an osteria (guest house) on the road – the sign says, “We’ll give credit when this rooster crows.”

Church near Udine

A church near Udine

Near Udine, Italy

Near Udine

Udine, Italy

Udine

Austria - Wolfsburg

Wolsfberg, Austria

Wolfsberg, Austria

Wolfsberg, Austria

It turns out our route took us past Villach and through Klagenfurt and Graz, cities where I would spend much time in 1975 although I had no idea that would be the case. Wolfsberg lies on the road between Klagenfurt and Graz.

I would also spend about 6 months in Vienna in 1976, but even as early as 1971 I had this fixation on Beethoven, whose piano sonatas I was laboriously learning to play, and Vienna was like making a pilgrimage to Mecca. The weather was gray and wintry for the most part, but for 20-year-old me, it was still a gas being there.

Vienna - Beethoven Monument (2)

The Beethoven Monument, Vienna. You can tell by the trees that this was not taken in December; in fact, it was taken 5 years later when I returned to Vienna as a missionary. But it’s almost a clone of the picture that I took in 1971, albeit much clearer, so I allowed myself the substitution.

 Vienna - Beethoven Monument

Der Allermeister in all his scowly grandeur

Vienna - December 1971 - Beethovenhaus

Beethoven House

Vienna - Beethovenhaus

Beethovenhaus closeup – the plaque reads, “In this house lived Ludwig van Beethoven during the winter of 1819/20. The Missa Solemnis was written here.”

 Vienna - December 1971

Vienna street with overpass

Vienna - Donau at low ebb

Donaukanal at low ebb

Vienna - Maria Theresa Monument

Vienna – Monument to Maria Theresa

Vienna - Parliament Building

Vienna – Parliament

Karlskirche

Vienna – Karlskirche

Vienna - Restaurant

We stopped for cocoa in this warm and cozy restaurant

Vienna - Skaters

Vienna – Skaters. I can hear Waldteufel’s “Skater’s Waltz” playing in the back of my mind…

Vienna - Stadtsmuseum

Vienna – National Museum

Vienna - Strauss Monument 2

Vienna – Monument to Richard Strauss

Vienna - Strauss Monument

Vienna – Strauss monument closeup

Vienna - Unknown 2

Vienna – National Musem

Vienna - Unknown

Vienna

Volkstheater

Vienna – People’s Theatre

After Vienna, we headed west, and spent the night in Lofer, Austria – one of the most picturesque places I have ever seen. It still rivals many others, and often appears on Austrian travel adverts.

Lofer - Hotel

The hotel where we spent the night – 100 Schillings, breakfast included. That came to about $4.00, the Austrian Schilling being about 24 to the dollar at the time. 5 years later it was down to 15.

Lofer - Winter Landscape

The Lofer church by day.

Lofer, Austria - December, 1971

Church in Lofer at sunset.

Lofer, Austria - Haus Anna

Lofer – Haus Anna

Lofer, Austria 2

Lofer, Austria

Lofer, Austria at Sunrise

Another view of the iconic Church

The following pictures were taken in Austria at various points, but I didn’t have the presence of mind to label them at the time. As a result, the precise locations are unknown.

Austria - Alps

Austria - Castle

Austria - Church Tower

Austria - Church

Austria - Morning Mist

Austria - Mountain Castle

Austria - Mountain Village

Austria - Road

Austria House

Austria Somewhere

Austria, December 1971

We continued west through Austria toward Switzerland, and passed through the Romansch-speaking areas in the southeast where we encountered some lovely snow sculptures:

Romansch Area - Horse Snow Sculpture

Horse rampant

Romansch Area - Polar Bear

Polar bear with cubs

These don’t rival the ones you find up in Sapporo, Japan, but they were impressive enough for me at the time.

Lake Como, Italy

Home and garden near Lake Como

It was a trip not to be forgotten. George, I hope you enjoyed these memories as much as I did.

The Old Wolf has spoken.

Zermatt, 1975

The Matterhorn, Summer 1975. ©1975-2012, Old Wolf Enterprises, All Rights Reserved

Probably one of the most iconic and picturesque images in the world – and the reality lives up to the hype. To stand in Zermatt, looking up at this beautiful mountain with the green Alm at its feet, is absolutely breathtaking.

The village looks like something out of a Disney fantasy, but it’s very real, as your wallet will attest. I lived in Switzerland in 1984, and the dollar was at 2.5 CHF then – now it’s at 1.06. Not surprisingly, the Big Mac index lists Switzerland at No. 2 worldwide – but it’s really No. 1, considering that Venezuela’s price is off the scale for a number of reasons.

But if you can afford it, Switzerland is basically one stunning view of beauty after another, across the entire country. If I were wealthy beyond the dreams of avarice, one of those little chalets would be mine.

The Old Wolf has spoken.